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BERLIN
- GERMANY
Berlin is the national capital of Germany and
its largest city, with 3,387,404 inhabitants (as of September 2004; down
from 4.5 million before World War II, and on the decline since German
reunification in 1990).
Berlin is located on the rivers Spree and Havel in the northeast of Germany.
It is enclosed by the German state (Bundesland) of Brandenburg, and it
constitutes a state of its own.
Politics of Berlin
The State
Berlin has become an independent state with the day of the German
reunification on October 3, 1990, making it one of the three city states
among today's 16 German Bundesländer beside Hamburg and Bremen.
Former West-Berlin (originally Greater Berlin, including the eastern part
was intended) had been a state since the foundation of the Federal Republic
of Germany on May 24, 1949, but been dependent on the allied-status. East-Berlin
had been capital of the German Democratic Republic from 1949 to 1990,
although this had been a violation of the allied agreemant.
Berlin is governed by the Senat of Berlin which consists of the Regierender
Bürgermeister (governing mayor) and up to 8 senators, holding ministerial
portfolios. The governing mayor is mayor of the city and representative of
the Bundesland (state) at the same time. Presently, this office is held by
Klaus Wowereit (SPD); for earlier mayors, see the list of Mayors of Berlin.
The city and state parliament is called the Abgeordnetenhaus or House of
Representatives. The current government consists of a coalition of the
social democrat SPD and the socialist PDS.
The Boroughs
Berlin is subdivided into 12 boroughs, called Bezirke, which have been
merged from the previously existing 23 boroughs, effective since January 1,
2001.
For a map and a list of the old and new borough names, see Boroughs of
Berlin.
Each Bourogh is governed by a so called Bezirksamt consisting of five
Stadträte (town councillors) and a mayor. The Bezirksamt is elected by the
district-parliament, the so called Bezirksverordnetenversammlung. Though the
Boroughs of Berlin are not independent municipalities, the political power
of the district-parliaments is quite weak and dependent on the Senat of
Berlin.
The district-mayors form the council of mayors, called Rat der Bürgermeister
under leadership of the Governing Mayor to advise the Senat.
History
Early settlements
At about 720 two Slavic tribes settled in the Berlin region. The Heveller
settled at the river Havel with their central settlement in Brennabor which
later has bacome the town of Brandenburg. Close to the river Spree in todays
borough of Berlin Köpenick the Sprewanen were found.
The Heveller founded another place at the river Havel in about 750. This
seems to be the closest settlement to the area which is today known as
Berlin and was called Spandow (todays Spandau). Spandau and Köpenick which
had been protected with barriers around 825, had been the major settlements
and later towns in the area until the early 11th century.
Berlin and Cölln
Berlin itself is one of Europe's younger cities with its origin in the 12th
century. The city developed out of the two settlements Berlin and Cölln on
both sides of river Spree in todays borough Mitte. With the date October
28th, 1237 Cölln is first documentary mentioned, Berlin in 1244.
Unfortunatly the great town center fire damaged most written record of those
early days in 1830.
Both cities formed a trade union in 1307 and participated in the Hanse.
Their urban development parallel took place for 400 years until Cölln and
Berlin finally unified under the name of Berlin in 1709, including the
suburbs Friedrichswerder, Dorotheenstadt and Friedrichstadt.
Not much is left of these ancient communities, although some remainders can
be seen in the Nikolaiviertel near the Rotes Rathaus and the Klosterkirche
close to todays Alexanderplatz.
Urban development between the 15th and 17th century
The first City Palace had been built at the embankment of the river Spree
from 1443 to 1451. At that time Berlin-Cölln counted about 8,000 inhabitants.
In 1576, the pest killed about 4,000 people in the city.
During the Thirty Years' War (1618-1648), Berlin's number of inhabitants
shrank from 10,000 to 6,000.
In 1640 Frederick William took regency in the principality of Brandenburg.
During his government Berlin reached 20,000 inhabitants and became
significant among the cities in Central Europe for the first time.
A boulevard with six rows of trees was put on between the park Tiergarten
and the Palace in 1647. The boulevard is called Unter den Linden.
Some years later (from 1674 on), the Dorotheenstadt was constructed in a bow
of the river Spree northwest of the Spree-island where the Palace was
situated. From 1688 on the Friedrichstadt was built and settled.
Prussia
In January 18, 1701, Frederick III was crowned King Frederick I in Prussia
and made Berlin the capital of the new kingdom of Prussia.
In 1709, Berlin-Cölln was joined together with 'Friedrichswerder', the 'Dorotheenstadt'
and 'Friedrichstadt' under the name of Berlin, with 60,000 inhabitants.
Weimar Republic and Third Reich (Third Empire)
The overall impression one gets when visiting Berlin today is one of great
discontinuity, visibly reflecting the many ruptures of Germany's difficult
history in the 20th century.
Although it was the residence of the Prussian kings, Berlin's population did
not greatly expand until the 19th century, mainly after becoming the capital
of the German Empire in 1871. It remained Germany's capital during the
Weimar Republic and under the Nazis' Third Empire; it was therefore a
primary target in the Allied air raids of World War II.
The divided city
After World War II, Berlin, just like Germany itself, was divided into four
sectors by the Allies: one each for the United States, the United Kingdom,
France, and the Soviet Union. The Soviets occupied East Berlin, and the
other three occupied West Berlin. Berlin was in the middle of the Soviet
sector of Germany and became a natural focal point of the opposing sides in
the Cold War. Starting on June 26, 1948, Stalin's "Berlin Blockade" of West
Berlin led the western Allies to supply it through the Berlin Airlift.
The Soviet sector of Berlin, East Berlin, became the capital of the German
Democratic Republic (East Germany) when the country was formed from the
Soviet sector in 1949. The Federal Republic of Germany (West Germany),
formed from the other three sectors, had its capital in Bonn. On August 13,
1961, the Berlin Wall was constructed, splitting West Berlin from the rest
of East Germany.
Reunification
The Berlin Wall fell on November 9, 1989. By the time Germany reunified in
1990, the Wall was almost completely demolished, with only small sections of
ruins remaining, and once again Berlin was made the capital of a unified
Germany.
Tourist attractions
Even though Berlin does have a number of impressive buildings from earlier
centuries, the city today is mainly stamped by the key role it played in
Germany's history in the 20th century. Each of the governments which had
their respective seat in Berlin — namely the 1871 German Empire, the Weimar
Republic, Nazi Germany, the GDR, and now the reunified Germany — initiated
ambitious construction programs, each with its own distinctive character.
Berlin was devastated by bombardments during World War II, and many of the
old buildings that were left were eradicated in the 1950s and 1960s in both
the West and the East. Much of this destruction was caused by overambitious
architecture programs, especially in order to build new living or business
quarters. It would not be an exaggeration to say that no other city in the
world offers Berlin's unusual mix of architecture, especially 20th century
architecture. The city's tense and unique recent history has left it with a
distinctive array of sights.
Not much is left of the actual Berlin Wall. The East Side Gallery in
Friedrichshain near the Oberbaumbrücke over the Spree preserves a portion of
the Wall. By observing the architecture it is still possible to tell if one
is in the former eastern or western part of the city. In the eastern part,
many Plattenbauten can be found, reminders of Eastern Bloc ambitions to
create complete residential areas with fixed ratios of shops, kindergartens
and schools. Another difference between former east and west is in the
design of little red and green men on pedestrian crossing lights
(Ampelmännchen in German); the eastern versions received an opt-out during
the standardisation of road traffic signs after re-unification, survived to
become a popular icon in tourist products.
Historical sights in the city centre
The Brandenburg Gate and Unter den Linden, symbols of Berlin, Prussia, and
now Germany. The Brandenburg Gate appears on German Euro coins.
Reichstag building, the old and new seat of the German parliament, renovated
by Sir Norman Foster. Features a glass dome in which you can walk around and
watch the parlamentarians from above.
Gendarmenmarkt, arguably the most beautiful square in Berlin surrounded by
two famous cathedrals and the concert hall.
Berlin victory column, monument to Prussia's victories.
The Berliner Dom, a historic cathedral. A large crypt is home to the bodies
of the Prussian royal family.
Cathedral of St. Hedwig (St.-Hedwigs-Kathedrale)
Nikolaiviertel with the Nikolaikirche a historical city core founded in the
13th century.
The Neptunbrunnen, a famous fountain in Berlin Mitte.
Tiergarten is Berlin's largest park and a masterpiece of park building. The
Tiergarten was largely deforested by 1948 because it served as a source of
firewood for the devastated city.
Sights of the former GDR and the Cold War
The Palast der Republik, the old East German parliament building. It is seen
by some as ugly, but it does have its history and positive connotations - in
addition to functioning as the government center, there were restaurants,
shops, clubs, and concerts took place there in the 1980s. The Palast der
Republik is built on the site of the Berlin City Palace, which was
demolished by the Communists.
The Fernsehturm, the TV tower, the highest building in the city at 368 m
(1207 ft), and the second largest structure in Europe (after Moscow's
Ostankino Tower). The Fernsehturm is easily visible throughout most of the
central districts of Berlin.
Alexanderplatz, formerly East Berlin's major shopping center, and home to
the Centrum-Warenhaus, which was the DDR's department store. It is now a
thoroughly westernized shopping center.
East Side Gallery a memorial for freedom based on the last parts of the
Berlin Wall
Rotes Rathaus(the Red City Hall), historic town hall famous for its
distinctive red-brick architecture
Rathaus Schöneberg with John-F.-Kennedy-Platz, whence John F. Kennedy made
his famous "Ich bin ein Berliner!" speech.
Checkpoint Charlie, remains and a museum about one of the crossing points
(albeit restricted to Allied forces) in the Berlin Wall. The museum exhibits
interesting material about people who devised ingenious plans to leave the
East.
Sights of modern Berlin
Potsdamer Platz, an entire quarter constructed from scratch after 1995. The
historic Potsdamer Platz was not rebuilt as it was divided by the Wall. A
must-see for people who like modern city planning.
Hackescher Markt, Spandauer Vorstadt and Scheunenviertel, the home to
fashionable culture, with countless small clothing shops, clubs, bars, and
galleries. This includes the New Synagogue area in Oranienburger Straße
(originally built in the 1860s in Moorish style with a large golden dome,
and reconstructed in 1993), and the Hackesche Höfe, a conglomeration of
several buildings around several courtyards, nicely reconstructed after
1996. This area was a centre of Jewish culture before the Nazis.
Sights with panoramic views
Berliner Funkturm— the only observation tower of the world, standing on
insulators!
Berlin Television Tower — the 368 meter high television tower, built in 1969
is situated close to Alexanderplatz. From its observation platform at 204
meters hight the whole city can bee seen.
Grunewaldturm — the historic tower is 59 meters high, situated on hill in
Grunewald forest close to the lake Wannsee.
Französischer Dom — located on Gendarmenmarkt in the very heart of the city,
the platform of the cathedral offers a unique view.
Berliner Dom — next to Lustgarten the Berlin Cathedral offers a circular
platform outside the dome.
Bell Tower at the Olympic Stadium — being part of the Reichssportfeld, the
tower offers a view at the Olympic Stadium and the Waldbühne.
Siegessäule — the monument on Großer Stern in the middle of the Tiergarten
was relocated there in 1938/39. Before it was situated in front of the
Reichstag.
Education and Science
Universities
Freie Universität Berlin
Humboldt-Universität zu Berlin
Technische Universität Berlin
Charité (Medical Faculty of Freie and Humboldt-Universität)
Universität der Künste
Universities of Applied Sciences
Alice-Salomon-Fachhochschule für Sozialarbeit/-pädagogik
Evangelische Fachhochschule
Fachhochschule für Technik und Wirtschaft
Fachhochschule für Wirtschaft
Hochschule für Musik Hanns Eisler
Technische Fachhochschule
Zoos
Zoologischer Garten Berlin, Berlin's eldest zoo located in the city center.
Tierpark Friedrichsfelde, founded by the GDR in a historic castle park in
eastern Berlin.
Culture
After the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989 many houses in the city center of
former East Berlin (today the district Mitte) were partially destroyed. Many
had not been rebuilt since World War II. Illegaly occupied by young people,
they had become a fertile ground for all sorts of underground and
counter-culture gatherings. It also was home to many nightclubs, including
the world-famous Techno clubs Tresor, WMF, Ufo and E-Werk.
The art scene in Berlin is extremely rich, and the city offers one of the
most diverse and vibrant nightlife scenes in Europe. Most Berliners take
great pride in their city's reputation as one of the most socially
progressive cities on the continent.
Berlin's annual Carnival of Cultures, a multi-ethnic street parade, and
Chistopher Street Day celebrations, Central Europe's largest gay-lesbian
pride event, are openly supported by the city's government and are visited
by millions of Berliners each year.*
Despite the city's declining overall population and relatively high
unemployment levels, a significant number of young Germans and artists
continue to settle in the city, and Berlin has established itself as the
premeire center of youth and pop culture in German-speaking Europe.
Signs of this expanding role were the 2003 announcement that the annual
Popkomm, the world's largest music industry convention, would move to Berlin
after 15 years in Cologne. Shortly thereafter, German MTV also decided to
move its headquarters and main studios from Munich to Berlin. Universal
Music opened its European headquarters on the banks of the River Spree in an
area known as the mediaspree which is planned to develop into one of
Europe's leading centers of media-related industries.
Museums
Museum Island with the Altes Museum, Pergamon Museum and Alte
Nationalgalerie
German Museum of Technology in Kreuzberg, located at the site of an old
freight train hub
Museum for Natural History
Museum for Post and Telecommunication
Neue Nationalgalerie (New National Gallery), one of the last buildings by
Ludwig Mies van der Rohe
Jewish Museum Berlin
Hamburger Bahnhof (Museum for the Present - Berlin)
Museum of European Cultures
Theaters
Schaubühne
Volksbühne
Deutsches Theater
Berliner Ensemble
Theater des Westens
Grips-Theater
Maxim Gorki Theater
Renaissance Theater
Transport and Traffic
Public Transport
U-Bahn, Metro subway system
S-Bahn, mostly overground urban railway system
Straßenbahn, a tram system mainly located in eastern Berlin
Bus,
Passenger Ferry
All means of public transport, U- & S- Bahn, Trams, Buses and Ferries can be
accessed with the same ticket.
A map of the current Public Transport Network
Airports
Schönefeld International Airport (SXF), to be expanded and renamed Berlin
Brandenburg International Airport (BBI) in 2007
Tegel International Airport (TXL), to close after BBI starts operations (in
2007)
Tempelhof International Airport (THF), to close 2006
Ports
Westhafen (Westport) - largest port in Berlin with an area of 173,000 square
meters; transshipment of grain, pieced and heavy goods.
Südhafen (Southport) - an area of about 103.000m² for transshipment of
pieced and heavy goods.
Osthafen (Eastport) - the area of 57.500m² is still in use, but partly under
urban redevelopment
Hafen Neukölln (Port Neukölln) - with only 19.000m² the smalest port;
transshipment of building materials.
Sports
Berlin hosted the 1936 Summer Olympics.
Berlin will participate in hosting the FIFA Football World Cup in Germany in
2006
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